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'Reflections'
is an account of life as a fireman on the Canterbury to Whitstable
Railway during the second world war.
The seven-mile
trip from Canterbury to Whitstable produced several very different
changes in normal railway practice for a young fireman. The
steep climb out of Canterbury, problems in the tunnel, conservation
of water and a none-too-helpful mate on the footplate. Quite
a new outlook on the job.
The shunting
work in Whitstable harbour was likewise an odd experience.
Access from Tankerton Halt was through crossing gates over
Harbour Street and into the yard. The main section of this
yard was out-of-bounds for our engine because a small weighbridge,
just inside would not stand its weight. This was something
nobody had told me about, and on my first day 'Tucker' had
left me to do the shunting while he disappeared on urgent
errands. The shunter on the ground ahead called the engine
forward and I put all wheels on the table of the weighbridge.
At that
precise moment, 'Tucker' walked round the back of a raft of
wagons. He leapt into the air and gave a fair imitation of
an All Blacks' rugby football team ending the New Zealanders'
ritual war dance. One thing must be remembered about friend
Lowe; he always sought to put the blame where he thought it
belonged. Never himself, of course, but on this occasion the
two shunters must have wondered what had hit them. I appeared
to be completely exonerated and all the way back to Canterbury
was treated to a lurid biography of those shunters which,
if ever published,would have landed 'Tucker' in a libel case
in the law courts.
With
parts of the yard denied to the locomotive, shunting at Whitstable
was something quite unusual. A
good deal of 'fly' shunting took place when uncoupled wagons
would be put in motion by the engine, brakes applied, and
the truck ran loose, carefully shepherded by a shunter with
a brake-pole ready to stop it short of any obstruction. Then
for my favourite part of the operation. Two beautiful Shire
horses took over from the engine and the shunting carried
on, quite mechanically, through the available horse-power
directed by a groom-cum-shunter who handled those intelligent
beasts like a computer. A whistle here, a nod there and the
horse would respond just like a piece of machinery.
Our loads
were mainly, in wartime don't forget, of coal grain or aggregates.
In the early days of the harbour, coal was brought in by ship
from the north east. My experience was that the position was
now reversed and coal from the nearby Kent coalfield - Chislet,
Betteshanger, Snowdown or Tilmanstone pits - was loaded into
barges for shipment to the north. Grain boats, specially fitted
with equipment for loading cargoes into "rail wagons
by a suction method, provided plenty of work.
We would
take our six ten-tonners over to Canterbury where they would
be marshalled onto a Ramsgate/Ashford service that night and
deposited in Pledges Sidings at Ashford. Pledge's Flour Mills
would ensure a good supply of bread, far and wide. 'Tucker'
Lowe had a special and clandestine interest in this transaction.
How it was done I will never know but, at a time when poultry-feed
was extremely hard to come by, the chicken housed in 'Tucker's'
allotment run were obviously very well fed.
But we
can pick up this story a little later. For the moment we have
to mention certain dramatic events on the night of Sunday/
Monday 31 May and 1 June 1942 - events which temporarily put
a stop to many activities in the Canterbury City area at that
time.
It happened
that my spell of firewatching duties fell on that fateful
night. But I was far away from the scene, and the danger,
in Ashford. At about 01.00 hours we began to see flashes of
light out towards Canterbury and while there was nothing unusual
about seeing searchlights, flares and the flashing of anti-aircraft
guns all around our part of Kent when the 'Red' warning was
on, this was obviously something different.
Very
quickly, a crowd of neighbours congregated at the end of Essella
Road, by Ashford's football ground, and there was a good deal
of speculation as to what might be happening. There had already
been talk of German ' Baedeker' air-raids and we guessed the
cathedral might be under direct fire. My concern was how 'Tucker'
and other workmates would be doing at this moment. And how
to get to Canterbury today? We had plenty of aircraft noise
and activity of our own, of course, and the Railway-Works
was surely a tempting target for the Heinkels, Stukkas and
the rest? So it was necessary to stay on the alert, armed
with stirrup-pumps and buckets of sand until it seemed reasonably
safe to leave.
Over
in the locomotive sheds I discovered that trains would be
very much delayed into Canterbury. But a light engine was
being sentdown to lay a sort of 'flarepath' for Ashford's
breakdown train and crew to follow. So I cadged a ride on
the footplate and managed to get to the depot at 05.00 hours
- about an hour before my usual signing-on time. That the
City had been badly damaged was evident from the smoke and
flames all around.
My first
sight of direct damage was the spectacle of driver Edwin Lowe,
tears streaming down his face, dropping the carcass of one
of his chickens down a fair-sized crater in the middle of
his garden. The chicken-run and the whole of his big garden
shed had been demolished. The whole area around the West-Station
and the loco-shed was a shambles. Beyond, looking toward the
shopping area, smoke billowed high and wide. It was one of
my most sickening experiences of the war. And on the railways
in London and the S.E. coast in those hectic days we had a
few.
After
sizing up the immediate situation and making sure that nothing
could be done to ease the traffic situation on the railways
at Canterbury, I helped 'Tucker' to put things back into as
much order as possible and then asked what I could do elsewhere?
The police,
fire-services and wardens were fully occupied so I gave a
hand here and there, and then wandered off through West Gate
and into the town. Absolutely appalling! Fire hoses, lorries
moving bricks and mortar, emergency services working feverishly
everywhere, and the stench of burning timber - these sights,
sound and smells were never-to-be-forgotten reminders for
the rest of my life of the utter futility, the insanity, of
war.
A walk
along the wall toward the Dane John and round the higher and
wider vantage points demonstrated the severity of the raid.
But damage to the railway at this time looked very light,
indeed. Those Baedeker attacks obviously concentrated on causing
maximum psychological impact on the population rather than
material damage to defence or industrial targets. These factors
have been extensively chronicled elsewhere, of course, and
this is no place to dwell on the plight of the citizens of
our Cathedral City, great as that was.
Inside
24 hours we were back to something like normal services on
the 'Crab & Winkle' Driver Lowe was really cut up about
the loss of his chickens. He was a remarkable character. On
the face of things, he had scant regard for the feelings or
welfare of people around him. Yet the realisation that his
pampered poultry had gone was a blow from which he hadn't
recovered when I left to go back on further promotion to Ashford
some six months later. He had names for each of his birds.
He knew their sexes. The call of a name and the flourish of
a bowl of corn would have 'Gertie' or 'Maud' or 'Bert' running
toward him. Sad, that.
Which
brings us back to the matter of loads of maize and other corn
on the railway service from Whitstable. The summer following
this air raid saw masses of young corn plants growing vigorously
in all the allotments adjacent to Canterbury West locomotive
depot. Gardeners swapped ideas as to the origin of the seed.
They ranged from the suggestion that this was some sort of
devine act like 'manna from heaven' to wind-blown seed distributed
far and wide. I could have told them it was nothing of the
kind.
In 'Tucker'
Lowe's garden shed on that fateful night, several very large
galvanised-iron dustbins filled with the best maize from the
Whitstable barges had been blown sky-high. This was the agent
responsible for the widespread sowing and eventual harvesting
of sweet corn in Canterbury. Just how it got into the dustbins
I will never know. But is is worth noting that 'Tucker's'
chickens were positively the best-fed, up to that time, in
the whole of Britain. Perhaps it is just as well that the
infamous 'Lord Haw Haw', lately of Whitstable, never got to
know the full detail of that vicious air raid on Canterbury?
Despite
these reverses, life in the Canterbury/Whitstable area carried
on much as usual each day. I recall fields of flowers outside
Canterbury West, on the Sturry Road, acres of 'Sweet William'
or'Wallflowers' or whatever may be in season. Huge bunches
of these could be had for a few coppers and I would take orders
in the shed at Ashford, delivering them on return that evening.
In the harbour, too, shellfish abounded with all manner of
other fish, also. Another good market back home. It had become
established practice that the fireman on the 'Crab & Winkle'
would provide this provender for the strictly rationed people
of Ashford during the war years .
Those
daily journeyings through the woods to Whitstable were likewise
quite rewarding. The railway banks produced all the wild spring
and summer flowers needed to relieve the gloom of wartime.
Primroses and violets with bluebells and anemones were to
be had in grand profusion. Later it was the wild strawberries,
tiny but extremely tasty. Then, toward autumn, up in the overgrown
gardens of the few cottages that once housed railway pumphouse
workers (actually these were the sites of the original stationary
steam engines which hauled Invicta's trains wherever she dared
not go) trees full of ripe greengages, plums, apples and pears
were there for the plundering.
My great
regret about the short time I spent on the Canterbury to Whitstable
Harbour Railway - something like twelve months - was really
a golden opportunity wasted. If my driver, or any other railway
colleagues had known anything of the real history of the line,
I would certainly have nosed around to discover more - while
on the spot. But no-one told me anything of this important
'Whitstable First' - the very first fully steam-operated railway
in the world. Nor was I to learn about those other important
developments like the first steamship to sail from Britain,
out of Whitstable Harbour, to Australia; or the first Council
Housing scheme; the first deep-water diving apparatus - never
mind about the first railway bridge, tunnel, or the first
railway season tickets to be issued in the world.
It
is a shame that the exceptionally steep inclines out of Canterbury
and in reverse up Honey Hill bank to Tyler Hill proved much
too severe for poor old Invicta. Yet here again we have an
engineering 'first'. This little locomotive was the first
to be built with outside cylinders at the front end. The famous
Rocket -just one of several from the same Robert Stephenson
stable - had rear-mounted cylinders and it is a fact that
the Invicta arrangement caught on and became much more popular
as bigger and more powerful locomotives were introduced.
The awful
shame is, of course, that the politicians finally allowed
this line to be torn up when British Rail decided that the
service was uneconomical and must be withdrawn. Had someone
with the necessary forethought and enterprise taken over when
the line closed in December 1952, what a tremendous difference
this would have made in the area - especially in Whitstable.
The Canterbury
& Whitstable Railway would have become an international
steam haven. Railway buffs from all over the world would now
be paying regular pilgrimages. Trade and development in East
Kent would have benefitted and could have been a model for
the rest of Britain. The former Whitstable Urban District
Council must take the major blame for allowing this historic
reminder of the marvels of early railway engineering to disappear
from the face of the earth. Canterbury councillors may have
thought they could only cope with pilgrims of a different
species and just couldn't bother with more. Whitstable's representatives
should have known better.
In the
past two decades particularly, odd bits of British Rail have
been bought up by keen railway 'supporters' like artist David
Shepherd or by business types who recognise a good investment
when they see one. So we now have steam railway preservation
societies springing up all over the country - not a few in
the most unlikely places. Run by knowledgeable enthusiasts
and volunteers these refurbished lines are able to make profits
while British Rail incur horrendous losses in operating a
service which has become the laughing-stock of Europe.
For those
of us who were part of the daily working fabric of the line
in its final years, the loss of such a rich national asset
hurts. All that is left of the line is memory. We are lucky
to have at hand Mike Page's book, "In The Tracks of Railway
History", to retrace the route - which he does in graphic
style. But we all know that the sprawl of bricks and mortar
development at the Canterbury end of the line has made restoration
impossible. So the pain stays with us.
Copyright
(c) Don Pullen. Many thanks to his family for permission to
use this article.
Links
The
Whitstable 'Home Guard' -
BBC Website article
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